Pennsylvania’s Regenerative Farmers Cultivate ‘Lifestyles, Not Just Livelihoods’
Feb 26, 2021 09:35AM ● By Sheila Julson
As American
farmers age out—the average age is 57—removing barriers for the next generation
of farmers is crucial. Two regenerative farmers shared with Natural
Awakenings how their regenerative agriculture methods brought swaths of
Pennsylvania farmland back to life, and how they’re supporting future farmers.
Retired plastic surgeon Pam
Ellenberger says that she, along with her husband, Dr. Paul Stelmach, “came
backward into farming.” As an avid knitter for more than 50 years, she
researched natural fiber and eventually started raising alpacas for fleece. But
it was Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma through which
she learned about Joel Salatin, a Virginia-based farmer who uses regenerative
farming techniques. Salatin’s efforts inspired her to start raising chickens.

Bent Limb Farm, Shoemakersville, Berks County
While Ellenberger says they
originally bought their farm to raise alpacas, their focus has shifted over the
years toward animal welfare and improving the land. Bent Limb Farm
produces pasture-raised meats from chickens, turkeys, pigs, goats and lambs,
all with regenerative methods such as rotational grazing.
“Chicken manure is very hot and
will kill everything if you leave the chickens in one place all the time,” she
explains. “Moving chickens daily gives the ground just the right dose of
fertilizer, and it keeps the birds away from parasites in the manure.”
Ellenberger notes that when she
and Stelmach had first moved to their property, the ground was so undernourished
and hardened that they had to use a masonry drill bit to penetrate the soil to place portable
fence spikes. Today, much of the soil
is healthy enough to support permaculture gardening.
In addition to rotationally
grazing the animals, Ellenberger’s regenerative techniques include giving the
animals GMO-free feed, and composting their manure to spread onto the
fields. She uses herbs and essential oils whenever possible to keep the
animals healthy. Pastures are seeded with multiple species. Her goats
provide natural weed control by eating growth such as poison ivy. Everything
works together in a harmonious farming ecosystem.
Ellenberger explains that regenerative
farming leads to healthier products for consumers because the animals develop
their muscles while moving around on the pastures. While small
regenerative farms can’t feed the world, they can support lots of families with
good, healthy food. Ellenberger emphasizes that to scale up regenerative
farming in the United States, we need more young farmers to pursue what she
describes as, “a lifestyle, not just a livelihood.”
She hopes to partner with a
produce farmer to use part of her land to grow vegetable crops. Interns
interested in regenerative farming had worked at Bent Limb Farm prior to COVID-19,
and Ellenberger hopes to invite them back once the pandemic is under control.
“You’re not going to make money farming like
you would being a hedge fund manager, but it’s very rewarding. Being a farmer
isn’t easy, but being a doctor or an accountant isn’t easy, either” she
observes.
Ellenberger emphasizes that the
public can best foster regenerative farming for the future by purchasing
products from local farmers. “Tour their farms. Ask farmers how their animals
are raised, if they use hormones and what kind of feed they use. If they can’t
look you in the eye and answer your questions, then they’re not the farmer for
you.”

Rising Locust Farm, Manheim, Lancaster County
Rising Locust Farm Fosters a Regenerative Community
As suburban professionals, Kay Rhodes and her
husband, Frank, had achieved what most people would consider the American
Dream. They had a long-time interest in growing their own food, so after their
kids had grown and moved out, they decided to change course. “A farm had always
been in the back of my mind, but our intention was to never farm alone. We
would find young people to work with us,” says Kay.
The couple had purchased their property in Manheim
nine years ago to cultivate their new venture, Rising Locust Farm. Their son,
Harrison, works on the farm full-time as livestock manager and co-visionary.
Using regenerative farming methods with an emphasis on permaculture—earth care,
people share and fair care—they raise nutrient-dense, grass-fed meat, eggs and
shiitake mushrooms grown on oak logs in forests on their property.
Kay explains there are two aspects to their
regenerative model. The agricultural arm focuses on the health of the soil.
They planted thousands of trees on their property to raise cows and sheep using
silvopasture grazing, a method that deliberately integrates trees and grazing
livestock operations on the same land.
“The animals graze between the rows of trees. The
trees are regenerating the soil, the animals are regenerating the soil, and the
tree rows are creating habitat while retaining water,” Kay explains. “We now
have more birds, too.”
Regenerative farming includes responsible management
of woodlands on farm property. Little Chiques Creek, which flows into the
Susquehanna River, runs through their property. Kay says they received trees
from the Chesapeake Bay Foundation to create a riparian buffer to protect the
creek. They’ve also added a small orchard and shrub fruit trees that produce
different types of berries with the help of farm community members Donna Volles
and Erica Jenkins.
The other aspect of their regenerative model focuses
on people and community. They have invited young people to live and work on the
farm to collaborate and grow the farm. “One of our long-term goals is to be
able to offer land access to start-up farmers who don’t have land. We would
give them a portion of pasture for little to no rent to get their business
going on our land,” Kay says. “We recognize the injustices of the whole
capitalist system that has allowed us to benefit so much. We feel like it’s our
obligation to give back to some people who might not benefit from the system.”
Without hesitation, Kay says that land access is the
largest hurdle to enter farming. “Land is expensive, and food is artificially
cheap because of industrialized agriculture. Growing quality food and selling
it at a price that will provide a living for the farmer, yet stay at a price
point that people can afford, is next to impossible.”
She believes that heightening awareness of where food
comes from and the true cost behind producing quality food would go a long way
toward solidifying the future of regenerative farming. “We’re always looking to
partner with people. We want to create connections and community with people
where we are. Most of us cannot influence global, national or state policy
decisions, but the more we develop relationships with people working, eating
and growing near us, the more we can accomplish.”
Sources:
Bent Limb Farm, LLC, is
located at 592 Stone Hill Rd., in Shoemakersville. For more information, visit BentLimbFarm.com.
Rising Locust Farm is located at 1339
Creek Rd., in Manheim. For more information, visit
Sheila
Julson is a freelance writer and regular contributor to Natural Awakenings magazines across
the country.